scootworks adj lowering kit
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Author Topic: scootworks adj lowering kit  (Read 3424 times)
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dsct
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« on: May 31, 2010, 11:13:00 AM »

Has anyone tried the scootworks adjustable lowering kit?

The links are knuckle shaped and can be adjusted 1"-2" or 3", seems like a good idea since I'm not sure how low I want  or need to go, and wouldn't have to buy extra link kits

http://www.scootworks.com/shop.cgi/page=partskawlower.htm/SID=PUT_SID_HERE

With a 30" inseam the first thing I will have to do is lower the KLR so my feet are flat on the ground, are on my toes when I test drove an 09

dsct
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larry0071
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« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2010, 12:53:21 PM »

I also am a 30" inseam, 5'8" wearing 34"x30" levis (Sometimes I get 36"x30", depends on fit) but my 09 was tippy-tip-toes on position #1 when I got it new and after a few hundred miles it started relaxing. Now I run position #5 to keep it at that original height. It will relax a bit. I ride off road and use downed trees as jumps on single track, so as the rear spring relaxed I started to slam into the hard stop pretty bad, I have no choice but run #5 just to let the rear do it's thing over downed trees and hard hits/rocks. The front... there is no hope for it in stock form. Get used to the metel on metel sound of the forks HAMMER-SLAMMING if you do any sort of off road riding. The front works 100% fine on paved roads, gravel roads and dirt roads. But get it into basketball sized rock, whoops, trying to float the front over ditches and holes.... trying to do anything that will creat a fast and sudden hit on the front, and you will dangerously collapse the front, at times causing you to loose control of the bike as it reacts violently.

You might well be good to go. Before you order the lowering links, ride a few hundred miles and see what happens. She may settle right down to a place your happy enough with that you do not need those links.
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griffo1962
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« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2010, 02:32:11 PM »

With a 30" inseam the first thing I will have to do is lower the KLR so my feet are flat on the ground, are on my toes when I test drove an 09

dsct

You do NOT need to flat foot the bike. It is not a cruiser...... So long as you can get at least 1 foot on the ground (by sliding sideways slightly off the seat if necessary) then you are good to go.
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griffo
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« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2010, 04:07:53 PM »

I am short and fat, and that bike is tall! I thought of getting some lowering links when I started riding this thing but I soon got used to the height I'm with these guys, give it a while befor you decide on getting links.
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dsct
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« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2010, 06:17:15 PM »

I will take the advice and wait a while

thanks
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gunny
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« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2010, 07:05:15 PM »

I have a 30" inseam and I tried the lowering links when I first got my '02, after having the tag ripped off three times in a month I just knew I had to do something different. I looked around and found that the corbing dished would lower me down about 1.5 inches, just fine with me.

Now onto the lowering links. Depending on how you intend to use your KLR, will dictate what you should or shouldn't really do , but first some insight ;

The suspension on a KLR is a progressive type suspension, meaning it applies leverage at a progressive rate to the shock. What this really means is that don't have to use as quite a heavy duty shock as they would were there no progressive reaction. The suspension is already too soft from the factory, even with the preload set on 5. Add lowering links and you make an already too soft suspension, extremely too soft. The links take leverage away from the system.  The opposite effect is experienced with raising links.

The three ways to over come the height deficit are, lowering links, shortened shock {leverage remains the same} or a lowered seat such as the corbin dished.

Each has it's good and bad points, namely cost and comfort level.

You have to be brutally honest on how you intend to ride. If you are never going to see more than a dirt road or fairly mild seasonal road and don't plan on hauling a bunch of camping gear on a cross country trip or riding 2 up then lowering links would be the best, cheapest route to getting where you want to be.

 If you want to run the woods and travel packed with a weeks worth of gear or ride 2 up, then either go with the lowered seat or lowered shock. I think a lowered shock is about $400 and a lowered seat is around $350 new, $200 for a used one in good condition.

That being said, I've pounded out about 25000 miles with 2 different corbin dished saddles. the first one had a leather cover which made you slide around quite a bit. My current one has a textured rubber type cover and is the current cover offered, you don't slide around on that one.

Corbins are funny, most guys either love them or hate them. I love them and have put several 900 mile days with one. Not one complaint from my tukus with that saddle. Now Several manufacturers make a lowered seat so don't consider just a corbin, sargeant and rifle make a lowered seat for a KLR. Year model pretty much doesn't matter, my corbin will fit a 1995 just as well as it would a 2009.

Lots to consider, just be honest on how you intend to ride. Hope I didn't confuse you too much.
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« Reply #6 on: June 01, 2010, 04:45:03 AM »

Hi dsct   I have a 1987 klr650. I have a 32 inch inseam and I wanted a little more foot down control. I put on the Soupy's ajustable lowering links last year...I took them off after 4 months...I could lower the bike to many different levels as stated by the company. I only wanted to lower it an 1 to 1 1/2. Problems...they are wider the oringinals so on the chain side the bolt head would hit the chain when the swing arm moved up...not good on bolt head or chain and sprocket...second on the right side I had to grind off part of the bolt on the lower shock absorber mounting bolt because the turnbuckle was hitting it..third the locking nut on the lowering link turnbuckle was damaging the lever housing...not sure if the soupys lowering links would better on a newer model but was not happy with what damage they were doing to my bike...yours if you want them...I live north of Sydney,OZ.
  I just returned from a 5 week holiday in the UK...my bike before I left had a bad vibrations...checked many things...decided it might be the idler chain/doohickey things so tonight I pulled all apart and put the Eagle mikes balancer lever and torsion spring...great info on the computer about how and what to do to these bikes...was late when I got done and it was raining and today was the first day of winter here...biked sounded better...will test ride tomorrow...plus I have a new taller(+7 inches) windshield which I will put on tomorrow...all from Happy Trails.com...good prices and service.
 Good luck on the lowering links..if I can find a place to get some 1 inch wide +1/8 thick flat bar metal I will try making my own lowering links...hard to find things here in oz...be safe and have fun riding...ps most of my riding right now is road because of where I am and I am still on my red Ps...will get full license in Sept. then maybe a trip around oz...lol....cheers...Bee

 
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dsct
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« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2010, 06:05:29 PM »

Bee,

Thanks for the reply, that was the type of answer I was asking for. Someone who had used the product. I now know not to consider the adjustable links if I decide to use lowering links.

My riding will be 80-90% roads and 10-20%, gravel or fire type roads, not much pure dirt riding. I will be taking some long trips on rough roads, but doubt I will be on to many roads that are barely passable.

dsct
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