how to use a feeler gauge?
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Author Topic: how to use a feeler gauge?  (Read 5882 times)
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mcpenner
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« on: August 29, 2011, 10:30:34 PM »

I'm in the middle of checking the valves on a KLR 250. The instructions from this and other places on the net seem easy enough but after searching for over and hour I still can't find out one think. What is the gauge supposed to be measuring?
- do I adjust it till I can get a .009 in but can't force a .010 in?
- or do I leave an actual gap between the set screw and the top of the valve stem?
- or do I make it so it grabs the gauge but still lets it move around?
- or what.................???

I've never tried something like this before but as I've read in various posts, it seems easy enough and I'm having fun with it. I just don't know exactly what it is I am measuring.

Thanks,
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Jettn Jim
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« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2011, 10:57:56 PM »

Hello...
The feeler guage should fit snug into the gap...say an .008 fits pretty easy...so you try an .009 and it's snug but it goes in...now you try a .010 but it's a no go it won't go in or you reeaally have to force it (you shouldn't do that  poke).  So you've got a .009 gap/valve lash.
That make any sense?
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mcpenner
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« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2011, 11:03:49 PM »

Thanks Jim, that's what I wanted to know and now I know it.  Awesome I'll get it done tomorrow and report how it goes.
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Jettn Jim
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« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2011, 11:14:52 PM »

 Awesome Cheers!
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MarkShelley
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« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2011, 02:40:36 AM »

First thing I do after removing the cover is to cram a clean cloth in around the timing chain area to prevent anything that you may drop getting into the engine.
You will probably have to make a bend in the feeler gauges to clear the surrounding lumps of engine to enable them to slide at the correct angle. If the feeler gauge is bending whilst you slide it in and out you will get an incorrect impression of what is happening .Be careful not to go silly when tightening the 10mm lock nuts. I have never bothered with torque values but just used a short spanner and a couple of fingers of pressure.
It is not a difficult process, just take your time. The beauty of doing it yourself is that you can afford the time to get it spot on whereas your local bike shop mechanic may not.

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TrailRider
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« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2011, 02:53:21 AM »

With set screw and lock nut valve clearance adjusment, as you have on your KLR250, the clearance may CHANGE as you tighten the lock nut.

Thus, you should measure your clearance AFTER you cinch down the lock nut.

You can minimize the final movement by holding the set screw while the lock nut is tightened.  If you still lose some clearance at the end, you may need to screw the set screw out a little wider just before you snug the set screw down.

Make sense?  Regardless, measure your valve clearance at the END of the adjustment procedure; repaeat setting 'til it's right when you button 'er up.
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mcpenner
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« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2011, 08:22:05 PM »

I got it done, I think I did it correctly  Hmmmmm... and now it won't start. I'm thinking I've dislodged some crude in the carb and have a fuel issue now? Would it be normal for it not to start if I adjusted the values too tight?
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Rico
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« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2011, 08:58:46 PM »

You would have to run the adjustment down to zero,  and then some to keep the bike from starting.

Check the basic stuff first. Is the fuel line reconnected? How about the spark plug? So on, and so forth.
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MarkShelley
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« Reply #8 on: September 13, 2011, 04:43:27 AM »

Are you absolutely sure you adjusted the valves with the crank in the correct position i.e. did you get the `T on its side` marking in the viewing hole?
If yes, check to see if you have a spark in the usual manner i.e. remove spark plug and insert it into plug cap and then hold it so the electrode is against engine block and turn the engine over.
If there is no spark check to see if you dislodged any connections when removing/replacing tank or valve cover.
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TrailRider
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« Reply #9 on: September 13, 2011, 07:51:56 AM »

I got it done, I think I did it correctly  Hmmmmm... and now it won't start. I'm thinking I've dislodged some crude in the carb and have a fuel issue now? Would it be normal for it not to start if I adjusted the values too tight?
You DID adjust the valves at TDC between the compression and the power stroke, and NOT at TDC between the exhaust and intake stroke, right?

All the valves are TOTALLY closed at the correct TDC position for valve clearance adjustment.

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mcpenner
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« Reply #10 on: September 13, 2011, 08:27:21 AM »

Yes I did but I plan to check it again to be sure. If I got it wrong would that cause it to not start?
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TrailRider
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« Reply #11 on: September 13, 2011, 09:25:55 AM »

Yes I did but I plan to check it again to be sure. If I got it wrong would that cause it to not start?
Possibly; you'd have excessive valve clearance if adjusted on the "wrong" TDC.

Tip:  Sometimes, Starting Fluid is your friend.  Have fire extinguisher handy!

Long pull in a higher gear (3rd or above) might start it.

Good luck!
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crpt
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« Reply #12 on: September 13, 2011, 11:09:11 AM »

Hi Mcpenner
After valve check. Make really sure the basic requirements are present, gas, air, spark.
This guys gave you good advice.
As Trailrider said starting fluid usually help.
But in the end check everything. Any bike must start easily without exterior help.  thumb   
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mcpenner
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« Reply #13 on: September 13, 2011, 11:30:00 AM »

Yah I'll be going through all the basics as I have time, it's just nice to get advice from those who know some of the idiosyncrasies of this particular motor.

Thanks everyone for the help, I'll keep at it and let you know what I think of the bike once I ride it.  I'm cruizin'
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Jettn Jim
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« Reply #14 on: September 13, 2011, 08:17:30 PM »

I'm sure you missed something simple.... Cheers!
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MarkShelley
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« Reply #15 on: September 15, 2011, 08:00:22 AM »

Just had another thought.........a basic thing I know, but you haven`t knocked the kill switch and not noticed have you? You wouldn`t be the first!
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mcpenner
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« Reply #16 on: September 15, 2011, 08:09:03 AM »

I've done that enough times in the past to remember to check. Often it is just the smallest little stupid thing. I haven't had time to work on it this week yet. Thanks all for the help.
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crpt
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« Reply #17 on: September 16, 2011, 04:53:15 AM »

...You wouldn`t be the first!
Off topic:

I wasn't the first, neither the second. But surely I'm on the list  Too funny! wings
And also know a few who left their battery completely drained.
Before noticed that small button  banghead of course not with KLR 250.  I'm cruizin'
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MarkShelley
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« Reply #18 on: September 16, 2011, 09:20:56 AM »

Another thing on the check list should be the two cut-out switches. There is one on the side stand and another on the clutch. I had an intermittent starting problem a while back. Once I bypassed both of these switches it has not happened again. There is info on the web on how to do this, but I can`t remember where!
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mcpenner
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« Reply #19 on: September 16, 2011, 09:22:34 AM »

Didn't know about the clutch switch. I'll have to look into that possibility.
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mcpenner
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« Reply #20 on: September 16, 2011, 03:06:01 PM »

Had a little time this afternoon.
1) Drained some nasty old gas out of the carb by loosening the drain screw on the bottom
2) I took the gas tank off. Found I had missed one small wire that should have been connected to the back of the ignition coil.
3) Gas tank back on - kicked, and kicked,
4) Noticed that gas was still dripping out of the drain tub from the carb
5) tried to rest the screw but it just keeps dripping (nice clean gas now)
6) plugged the drain tub with a nail
7) kicked, and kicked, started getting the odd back fire kicked, and kicked, sort of started, kicked and kicked - you get the picture

So now it will start, but I have not had it running to an idle yet

How do I stop the fuel draining out of the carb without plugging the drain tube with a nail?
I also noticed a larger tub coming from the air box. It has kind of a nipple on the end and a foam filter. It is all split and falling apart (the nipple). Not sure where it should go and if I should just jimmy it together or wait until I can get a new one. I'm assuming it must be a drain tub in case water gets into the air box?

I'm getting somewhere. Still have a long way to go.
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« Reply #21 on: September 16, 2011, 06:52:00 PM »

Hi Mcpenner
1 - Right action
2 - Without that wire the engine would never start. It's the feed wire (+) to the ignition coil. So without it there's no spark  thumb
3 - Yes that sucks, and the leg hurts  I'm whipped !
4 - Dirt in the carb float valve
5 - Don't overtighten
6 - Remove it at once... Never do that again you bad boy  HMMMMM.....
7 - Read number 3 again  Too funny!

- Remove spark plug and clean, or get a new one if it's in bad shape. By now it surely is fouled. An Iridium plug would be a good move, beat overkill but works well  WOW!

- Clean the carb. At least the float valve. Can be done on the bike but is far easier if you remove it.
Wash and clean every jet and the body. Be carefull with diaphragm. Before disassemble screw it in, and count the number of turns (fuel screw).
Just to learn how good or bad it was. Don't overtighten anything. It's the major mistake any novice does to a carb. Use right size/shape screw drivers.
Use inline gas filter to avoid future problems in the carb department. At least most of the dirt will not pass the filter.
----Or don't touch the carb use the bike for awhile, open and shut gas petcock while running the bike, if very small quantity of dirt. It might simply go away. I do not advise this, but if your short on time...
Anyway eventually you'll have to clean the carb so better do it now. Your call  puzzled  But do remove that nail.

- Air box tube. It's a drain. Clean and put it back together the best you can. Remove the foam if it's nasty condition.   
Get a new air filter. I use home cut foam, and other stuff. Cheap simple and very effective.
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mcpenner
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« Reply #22 on: September 16, 2011, 09:51:04 PM »

OK, I can put it off no longer. The carburetor is coming off tomorrow for a full cleaning. Does anyone have a link to good instructions for this carb? It's funny, I've rebuild fuel injected motors but never taken apart a carburetor.  puzzled

I figured I'd get my knuckles rapped for the nail. But please explain why so I can learn. It stopped pissing gas and I took the nail out, but now I can't get it to fire again.

I can't get the spark plug out. I have a know #16 size plug to put in if I can get the old one out. I do not live anywhere near a Kawasaki dealer so I don't know where I would find a the correct tool. Any hints on how to get the thing out without the tool?

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« Reply #23 on: September 18, 2011, 03:05:36 PM »

Carb disassembly/reassembly images:

http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php/topic,2333.0.html

How the carb works, Google "Care and Feeding of the CVK40."

Removing spark plug, recommend OEM toolkit spark plug socket, or thin-walled 18 mm deep socket.
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« Reply #24 on: September 19, 2011, 05:58:16 AM »

For the spark plug you can get a "normal" 18mm than make it thinner with a metal lathe. That was my choice, works great.

Any machinist (is this the right word?) would do it in 15 minutes, with a 10 minute coffee break  rayof
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