New (to me) KLR 250
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Author Topic: New (to me) KLR 250  (Read 1062 times)
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seabee12333
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« on: December 24, 2011, 08:00:48 AM »

My first post and introduction. Live in SoCal, never had a dualsport, but have always liked Kawasaki bikes and have been looking for deals on KLRs for a while Last week I found an '85 250 on Craigslist for $600. It had only 8800 miles and ran, so I arranged a look with the owner. I was surprised to find it was a very clean bike that had been pretty well cared for. I bought it intending to catch it up on maintenance and eventually give it to my son, who just turned 16. It was raining the day I bought it, and I didn't have a helmet, so I only took it for a very short ride. The front brake didn't work at all either, so up and down the alley I went, and then parked it and made the deal. At home, we did an oil change, lubed the chain, replaced the battery, bled the air and crud out of the brake, fixed a small fuel leak, and took her for a ride. I was a little disappointed when the bike wouldn't go over 40 mph! So... I started searching the web to find info on the carb. eventually I stumbled on this http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_a_carburetor_works:_Carbs_explained, and realized that it had to be the slide/diaphragm causing this. Took the carb out, popped the top, and sure enough, diaphragm had 4 holes in it, 2 of them were large, like 6mm long. I called a local bike shop in hopes the had one. No, but they said they could order it and have it the next day (yesterday). Well I got it installed, did half the .22 cent mod (couldn't find 2 washers that would fit inside the plastic needle "shoe") I had one in my hardware collection. Removed the snorkle, cleaned and oiled the air filter. Managed not to break my enrichener plastic piece going back together. I and very happy with the results. The little 250 was able to hit 85 mph on one stretch of open, flat road. Now I'm having second thought on giving it to my son...Maybe I'll find him another one. Actually what I have in mind is to look for a deal on a 650 for me, and this for him.
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MacGyver
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« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2011, 08:13:55 AM »

 Welcome seabee12333
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SLO-KLR
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« Reply #2 on: December 24, 2011, 08:22:14 AM »

 Welcome to KLRWorld seebee! 
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Riding into the sunset......
CoastieShep
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« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2011, 09:13:49 AM »

 Welcome
Lucky son you've got there.
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seabee12333
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« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2011, 09:39:25 AM »

Welcome
Lucky son you've got there.

I figure in some ways a bike is better than a car. He won't have to cart around a car full of guys needing a ride, good on gas, cheap insurance, he can learn how to maintain a machine, and do mods if he wants. I did tell him that an MSF course is mandatory. He still needs his permit and all that goes along with that too. Not like when I turned 16. go to DMV, drive, turned loose on the streets!
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« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2011, 11:23:25 AM »

 Welcome seebee. just had to say YOU SCORED!!!  clap
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ajeli
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« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2011, 12:06:10 PM »

 Welcome seabee12333. Looks like you got a pretty good deal.

What part of SoCal are you in?
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seabee12333
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« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2011, 01:28:31 PM »

Welcome seabee12333. Looks like you got a pretty good deal.

What part of SoCal are you in?

San Diego
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seabee12333
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« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2011, 03:48:31 PM »

Now I'm going to put out a question about the cam chain and tensioner. Is there a way to check these items without disassembly? should I worry about these with only 8800 miles? The engine runs fine, with very little/no noise (I can hear the chain running inside, but it sounds normal to me). Revs to 7k easily, so I'm just wondering, as I want to make it as dependable and long lasting as I can for my son. Any other recommendations or thoughts on this year would be much appreciated.
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« Reply #9 on: December 25, 2011, 03:43:55 AM »

Here's The Bike Bandit link you posted above also appears as a Keihin CV carburetor-specific link; stuff's generally applicable to your CVK34 on the KLR250:

http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm

I doubt two washers necessary for a stock bike's needle shim; one's enough I'd think (and you say it's running right).

The cam chain tensioner's an automatic, self-ratcheting device; if it ain't broke, etc., etc., I'd say.

The KLR600 "base" factory Service Manual and its KLR250 supplement could come in handy; might get by with a Clymer Generation 1 KLR650 book in place of the base manual.

I believe your top speed; done 80 + mph with a 14-tooth countershaft sprocket ("closed course, professional rider, do not try this at home").

A most capable dual-sport; gets a lot out of its 250 cc's with its 6-speed gearbox.

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A few items you might consider for fall-down survivability; handguards (e.g., Tusk, from Rocky Mountain ATV-MC) to protect the brake and clutch levers; Ken Sean dual-sport folding rear-view mirrors; Eagle Mike mirror and clutch lever relocation bracket . . .  (this last item protects the left handlebar switch-gear from grenading from mirror stem collateral damage) . . .
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seabee12333
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« Reply #10 on: December 26, 2011, 09:47:16 AM »

I have a new question regarding the temp gauge. Mine runs on the right side of center, and sometimes gets up to the triangle, but never into the red. the fan comes on, usually when it hits the triangle. It doesn't seem like it's real hot. just wondering what other 250 riders have experienced with their bikes.
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TrailRider
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« Reply #11 on: December 26, 2011, 12:58:34 PM »

Ain't no thang, IMHO, seabee12333!

My KLR250 behaves the same way.

Just a suggestion; make sure your cooling system is burped (run engine with radiator cap off 'til coolant circulates; then top off radiator and fill reservoir to FULL line).  Air pockets can cause high temperature reading because of coolant flow restriction, especially at low rpm.
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seabee12333
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« Reply #12 on: December 26, 2011, 01:37:44 PM »

Ain't no thang, IMHO, seabee12333!

My KLR250 behaves the same way.

Just a suggestion; make sure your cooling system is burped (run engine with radiator cap off 'til coolant circulates; then top off radiator and fill reservoir to FULL line).  Air pockets can cause high temperature reading because of coolant flow restriction, especially at low rpm.
Thanks for the input!
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