New member with a not so new KLR 250 (KLR Project)

[crpt]

Don't matter if they are 52V.
Shouldn't be anything bellow +-14V since this is what the charging system put out.
I use a 25V since is more than enough to give a safe margin. They never overheat when working.
Of course they don't charge more than 14V simply because the charging system only delivers +-14V.
Remember capacitors only have the ability to be charged at the voltage it receives.
Till the maximum value mentioned in the side print, in your case 52V.  

Temperature might also be important since this can be mounted near a big heat source (engine/exausth).
Altough in the KLR over the air box next to the battery is a very good spot.
Don't get any water or to much heat, etc.
Almost forgot yes it's 10,000. Capacitance and size don't always walk side by side  
Not sure if I got another photo with the letters...    

Edit: This I really forgot  
You might get two or tree of the ones you already got. Tape them together. Connect the "legs". And go from there.  
Don't forget to give some feed back about what you think, after trying this  

And YES kids this can be done at home.  

[Jmevans_2]

Ok CRPT you have really sparked my interest. Here is what I found lying around.

I took two of the 2800 uF capacitors and wired them in parallel.

Then I found that I had no place to put them like this so I had to separate them.

and here it is on my bike. They are kinda fat so the seat puts pressure on them but it should be ok.


I will let you know how this works out for me when I get off work.

[crpt]

Hi that looks really neat 
If the seat still touches it, wouldn't be better to mount them on the other side of the snorkel?
Just a tough.
By the way haven't seen a snorkel in place for quite some time. Mine is long gone.
Stored in a plastic bag waiting for a better use.

Not sure if mentioned before. Have you seen huge capacitors used for sound application in cars?
From an electrical point of view this does exactly the same. With a big difference in wallet use 
And did you know that many guys with enduro bikes, do something similar to eliminate battery from the circuit.
And some Kilograms in the process.
Altought i do not advise that pratice for street use, sometimes regulators don't like it very much.
So better stick with a good sealed battery and use this as an add on.   
Usually in gas cars/bikes you can notice the difference, in diesel application you hardly notice any difference. But is there.

[Jmevans_2]

Yeah I will move it to the other side of the snorkel. Which by the way I forgot was still on there. I had it off for some time and put it back on due to some unrelated issue.

Yes I am very familiar with the car audio capacitors. I used to be a one of the loud punks that people would call the cops on!

As for my update:

I love it! Now I have a real working horn again! 
My battery was never strong enough to give me an audible horn worth using but now it sounds as it should. Well when the motorcycle is being drivin it works. These caps are old as dirt but they still have a little life left in them.

I will keep my eye out for some better ones though.

[crpt]

Hi Jmevans_2 now you surprised me.
When I talked about feedback, never tought about the horn. Didn't even remember that. LOL
But you get the picture. Now you have more energy available whenever it's needed. Either for horn, blinkers, etc.
But my main goal as always been ignition.
Inspict this bikes energy coils runs in separate circuit (i.e. lights/ignition) it works.

To say the truth in every application I used this. I noticed some improvement in electrical performance.
In some of them the difference as been quite remarkable. And it's very noticeable a much smoother running engine.
That's why I said in gas engines, as you know diesel work in a totally different way.

These capacitors act like a energy "buffer", and overall amp draw falls quite a beat. Been using this for the last 20 years, never regretted. Not even once. Some of them worked for years, and didn't even had connectors, just striped and twisted wires.
Yeah i know it's not pretty, but still work  

For someone else interested in this. Almost every electrical appliance can be a source for capacitors.
Of course the other option is to go to the nearest shop a buy some. Anyway they are cheap.

[Jmevans_2]

I found some more caps today.
If this one would fit it would already be hooked up right now. 

[crpt]

I've one of those in my city car (Renault Twingo) mounted in the engine compartment behind right head light. 
Never had a complaint about it 

If you like tweaking electrical stuff on the bike. Maybe a few good, simple and cheap projects could be.
- Improve ground connection
- Improve head light with relay switch and direct connection to the battery 
- Change some bulbs to LED. This one releases a lot of amps to other applications 
- Clean all contacts and switch's 

Just some ideas.

[Baggey22]

I changed every bulb on my KLR except the headlight to an LED bulb. Made a big difference!

[crpt]

I did the same, except for blinkers. It's a very worth and simple mod.
The blinkers where chosen because they where cheap  
From the list I mentioned, the only thing still missing is the head light connection.
Changed the bulb to Phillips Vision Plus H4, always had good experience with this bulbs.
Last for a long time and they are cheap. Besides the light beam is longer than in "normal bulbs.
Also got a new sealed battery.  
About those LED's, just have to filter the dash panel high beam indicator it's to bright.
Sometimes at night is annoying

[crpt]

Hi all. Been out for awhile, and in the meantime put some kms in this excellent KLR. But some weeks ago two oil seals developed a small leak. Just a drip from time to time. But enough to get my attention. As some of you who been following this thread might have noticed. During engine rebuild only top part was done. So all seals/O-rings where still OEM.
So with this in mind, my first thought was just to exchange the faulty ones. And get back on the road.
But no... If you gonna do it. Do it right.
So lets take that engine apart and start from the ground up. Start by separating those case halves.
Every ball bearing seal and O-ring was ditched and a new one took place.
Needless to say the real bitch was the crankshaft/connecting rod. That connecting rod took some time simply because couldn't find replacement bearing for the big end (32x43x22), the major brands (SKF,Koyo, etc.) don't carry any part number with that dimensions.  
After a lot of research and study of the possibilities. Without considering buying a new Kawasaki rod assembly (that would have come with the bearing). My choice was SKF - NKS32 (32x47x22,5) (needle bearing with outer racer). The width off 22,5mm don't present any problem, since rod big end is 25mm total (washers included). Those 32mm for the crankshaft Pin fit exactly as needed. But that 47mm vs 43mm didn't   so drastic measures need to take place. After borrowing a metal lathe. Just need to cut the rod big end to 46.96mm (bearing 46.98mm). Go to the hydraulic press put it all together. But only after checking crankshaft run out with dial indicators. Which is another pain in the ass. Well now things are coming together, I mean case halves.  
But then again why just simply exchange old parts for new ones? Why not take the chance and do something else. Was it needed? certainly not. The head was already ported and polished. Now the piston was lightened. An oil cooler will come along. And compression ration will hop up again   now it's time for some pictures   don't have much, because most of the work wasn't done at home except the piston.










Reworked piston side by side with OEM dimensions

[crpt]

The piston OEM and Namura was discussed here:
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php/topic,19777.msg229730.html#msg229730
Can also be seen pictures of how it was  

What make things interesting is that lightened piston is now weighting 203.7 Gr vs 236 Gr.
Quite interesting specially considering the cost which = 0€    

Piston OEM = 236 Gr
Piston Namura = 221.7 Gr
Pin (both) = 63 Gr

Worked piston final = 203,7 Gr
A lot of weigh could be gained by making that pin thinner, but strength and material could be highly affected.
It's made of tempered steel...

[crpt]

Well this is an image of what came as a good idea.
When this engine was disassembled my first tough was to make this
engine a "stroker" with the addition of shims in the crankshaft pin.
For now I'll stick with the same displacement. Not because it's very difficult to do.
But mostly because in the very near future, I'll probably go to Nigeria for a year or so. More on that later   
Priorities change, so for now the most important thing is to put it back together.
Running well. The sad part here is I'll have no time to enjoy my bike...
Would like to drive it to Africa, but there's no real chance of that happening for now.

[TrailRider]

my first tough was to make this
engine a "stroker" with the addition of shims in the crankshaft pin.

Struggling to get my mind around this geometry; hey, I'm sure the technique must be viable, it's just ME, trouble visualizing.

A US company, "Cycle Works Racing," http://www.cycleworksracing.net/mojave.htm , in Pennsylvania, markets a KLR250 stroker kit; requires case machining for clearance.

These guys' long suit is hopping up Mojave ATV's for racing, machines with engines essentially similar to KLR250's.

[crpt]

...Struggling to get my mind around this...
...requires case machining for clearance.

Hi Trailrider as I said for now this idea is set aside.Because different priorities came up.  
I've heard about that company somewhere around here. But mainly for economical reasons. There's no justification for me to go that way. It's pretty expensive.
About the ways a "Stroker Kit" can be accomplished. Independently on the method, the final result must be.
The rod big end axle must be further away from the crankshaft axle. Plain and simple. There are a lot of ways to do this. What you see in that drawing is just one method. Another thing that don't appear is the raising plate (bellow barrel).
Some roughly measures let me understood that if you stay bellow 4/5mm there's no issues with cases clearance.  

Edit:
Here are some more images just to entertain the eyes  Maybe some day I'll draw the entire engine. I doubt... 

[crpt]

Hi all
While I wait for 2 oil seals to complete this engine.   
Another goodies came by. Namely an oil cooler and oil pressure gauge.
In both cases the cheapest ones I could find  For now there's no shots of this components.

Let me tell you guys. We all know "Murphy's Law". 
After spending one evening and one entire morning looking for a plain and simple washer.
I finally gave up and made one from scratch...
Took almost 1,5h mostly to look for some material similar to the original one. (Sunday syndrome  )
After making this brand new washer. Put it in the engine and assembled everything back together.
Finally getting a chance to smile.  So with a smile on my face, and a clean conscience for seeing it back together.
I came out to the back yard to smoke a cigarette. After light it up. For some reason looked down, and what was the first thing I saw you might ask.
Well you guess it right the WASHER   
No more comments...

[BakonMoto]

... Well you guess it right the WASHER   
No more comments...

  

Ain't that always the way!!

Look at it this way, crpt-- now you've got a spare .

Bryan

PS-- thanks for the laugh; you built that ending up just right.

[TrailRider]

...Struggling to get my mind around this...
...requires case machining for clearance.

 
About the ways a "Stroker Kit" can be accomplished. Independently on the method, the final result must be.
The rod big end axle must be further away from the crankshaft axle.

Re-examining the image in Post # 68 above, crpt, I finally notice the asymmetrical inserts holding the rod crank pin; and, I finally "get it!"

In the bad old days of hot-rodding, the crank pins were simply re-machined on centers eccentric to the original; result:  Smaller in diameter, but center line shifted radially away from the crankshaft center line, resulting in increased stroke by twice that margin.

Thanks!

[crpt]

...now you've got a spare .

Yeah. LOL 

...crank pins were simply re-machined on centers eccentric to the original; result:  Smaller in diameter, but center line shifted radially away from the crankshaft center line, resulting in increased stroke by twice that margin.

Right on the money. 
My first taught was exactly that.
But for some reason, meaning the approach I choose.
Was mostly because previous experience with this solution.

Meanwhile the engine is almost entirely back together.
This time is taking an "eternity" working on it.
Only somedays, and sometimes, in 15 minutes intervals. 
It's probably the worst approach efficiency wise, I mean.
But this project was moved to the background of my priorities.
Yesterday evening got around it for some twenty minutes.
Just enough time to put one oil seal on, and screw one side cover.
Then stopped again. Maybe tonight I'll put the water pump cover back on...

[crpt]

It's finally pumping  
Still need to put some things back together. Mainly seat, side covers, etc.
But now I can say "IT LIVES" again...

Seems to work very well. At idle speed is also very stable. Haven't tried it on the road yet.
It's making a LOT more noise now. Main culprit is the "new" compression ratio and opened up air box.
I also advanced the intake cam timing by one tooth. That also contributs to the loud experience.
The exausth note went up a FEW decibels.
Revs quicker than before, and seems much healthier. Less vibrations also, even with the piston rework.  
After road testing I'll write a bit more about performance.
Today was just a couple of cycles heat / cool, and verification of any possible leaks (none  )
Warms very quickly... and best of all, started at the first kick.

Tomorrow will be time to modify just a little bit the oil cooler. To hang it from the water radiator lower bolts.
Probably next weekend it will be put to work  

[crpt]

Well some 150kms went by and the comment i have about this engine for now is just...

HUAU!! 

It's aw some, never felt so much power from this unit 
Let me put it this way.
What this bike really needs now, is an upgrade to the brake system 
Need to go slow.
Those needles in the dash go from left to right in a hurry.
RPM goes quite easily to the red zone 

Only draw back till now. It's to dam noisy. Don't like that part.

[crpt]

This part I write quite SAD.  

Well the engine "broke" and left me stranded on the road.
Haven't looked yet. But seems to me, that distribution chain went for a walk... somewhere else  
So back to square one. Last few days has been raining "cats and dogs", just to make things worst.
Let's see when I can pull it apart and check what went wrong.
And most important what damages occurred in there.
For now I'll let the description.
The engine turns freely, but don't start.

And after this mishappen the trans don't allow any gear shift.
Something got loose in there and probably is stuck between gears.
This part thankfully only happened some time after the engine stop. When I was checking...

More on this latter

[BakonMoto]

Man, sorry to hear that, crpt ! From your previous posts though, it looks like you've become more than qualified to go back into it and figure out what went wrong. Good luck on it and keep us posted.

Bryan

[Jjgres]

What a great thread!

Sorry to hear your hot rod lunched but I have a feeling it will be even hotter next time.

[crpt]

...it will be even hotter next time...

Thanks for the support guys. But I surely hope it will be "colder" next time.
An oil cooler will be added.  
And some other mods in the colling system are being prepared.
Not sure yet if only the thermostat will be moved. Or an electric water pump will take place of the OEM one.
Yesterday bought, from Ebay, an electric pump just to make some experiments.
Anyway I haven't touched it yet, not even one bolt or screw. It's raining like hell out there.    

[crpt]

Hi all. Time for an update.
Last Saturday the engine top was unscrewed, just to find out I'm screwed  
Well as you guys know my first thought was the main trouble had come from the transmission chain.
I was wrong. Inspict the damage is just the same, the reason why it happened isn't.
The old piston blew and melted   . In my days have seen many holes in pistons, and every sort of damage.
But this is a first, not sure if this is the right word, but part of the piston "vaporized". Yes there's "aluminum dust" stuck in the exausth valves. Everything points to a phenomenon called "aluminothermy"...(need to look for this word in english  )

Meanwhile today arrived an electric water pump. I wanted to test it.
The same for the oil cooler. Both will be put to work on the next version of this engine.
Now I need to get back to the drawing board, and in the end, come up with something more mild than this wild version.
But let me tell you guys. There's certainly some sadness not only for the blown up engine.
But specially because it's certain that I canot pull so much horses from this power plant.
It didn't last long, but my god, it certainly glowed while it lasted
It was a blast. In every sense of the word  

Old Piston blown up and the new oil cooler. That oil cooler was almost ready to work. Well next time will be better  


Another one. To show how the piston crown ended up.


This one is here just to show that the part of this piston that was cut is still in "perfect" shape


Oil cooler.